The Los Angeles food scene has always been a vibrant blend of cultures and creativity. Lately, the city’s hot spots are leaning into nostalgia with a modern twist. There’s Ètra in Melrose Hill, opened by L.A. locals as a community hangout that’s both chic and relaxed, alongside its sister eatery Café Telegrama, housed in Joe Goode’s former artist studio. Donna’s in Echo Park has a fresh take on Italian comfort foods, while Camélia in downtown’s Arts District is a classic French bistro with a Japanese twist. In Venice, Si! Mon chef José Olmedo Carles Roja taps into his Panamanian roots with a mix of cuisines. Each brings a timeless yet modern approach to food and atmosphere. Here’s more on L.A.’s buzziest restaurants right now:
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Ètra & Café Telegrama
The Scene: Both Ètra and Café Telegrama, sister establishments in the trendy and art gallery-filled Melrose Hill neighborhood, attract a stylish and cool crowd of L.A. locals and international visitors, art collectors and fashion editors. Ètra is for dinner, while Café Telegrama is a charming morning and afternoon eatery.
Order: At Ètra, the chicories starter with anchovy, black pepper and cured yolk ($25) and dorade with red pepper and sichuan salt ($37). At Café Telegrama, the crispy ricotta pancakes with blueberry compote ($17).Ètra and Café Telegrama offer distinct yet complementary experiences. Ètra is sexy, intimate dining, blending California ingredients with Italian flavors. The midcentury modern interior, designed by John Zabawa, exudes warmth with natural wood and soft lighting. Executive chef Evan Algorri creates dishes like ricotta gnudi and bucatini with clams, complemented by a carefully curated wine list focused on small producers. Next door, Café Telegrama is a modern café with a European-inspired design, featuring a casual menu of breakfast staples, sandwiches and seasonal salads. It’s an inviting atmosphere with minimalist decor, full of natural light and a relaxed vibe that’s been attracting the community. Both are run by Algorri, a co-owner alongside Andrew Lawson, general manager, and Tyler Stonebreaker. Riley Harris is chef de cuisine.
“We sought this neighborhood out as a cultural hub in L.A., right in the middle of historic areas like Hancock Park, Koreatown and Silver Lake,” explained Lawson, an L.A. native. “What I’m most proud of is building a real neighborhood place. People come in every day — regulars from the neighborhood, families, business meetings, dates — it’s become a true community hub.”
Hours: Ètra, Tuesday to Sunday, 5:30 to 10 p.m.
Café Telegrama, Monday to Sunday, 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. (kitchen closes at 2 p.m.)
Location: 737 North Western, Los Angeles, CA 90029
Ètra, (323) 672-8606; Café Telegrama, (323) 536-9020 -
Camélia
The Scene: In-the-know foodies in downtown L.A.’s Arts District, there to enjoy dishes by two James Beard Award-winning restaurateurs in a lively, industrial setting with tall ceilings and wood accents.
Order: The koji-roasted Green Circle chicken, with seaweed cream sauce, grilled cabbage and garlic chive oil ($44).
“My culinary training was classical French and initially we wanted to open a French bistro,” chef Charles Namba told WWD of his first endeavor with partner and Camélia co-owner Courtney Kaplan, which was Tsubaki, an upscale izakaya in Echo Park. They then opened the sake izakaya next door, Ototo — both inspired by his Japanese American upbringing and Kaplan’s experience working in sake in New York. “But I never let go of the desire to cook French cuisine,” he said. “With Camélia, it is an opportunity to blend my French training and Japanese roots.” The French Japanese bistro incorporates French techniques, putting a twist on staples using Japanese ingredients and flavors. “Like using koji to season the roast chicken, which is served with a seaweed cream sauce, or using a ham katsu in a classic Croque Madame.”Hours: Sunday through Thursday, 5 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5 to 10:30 p.m.
Location: 1850 Industrial Street, Los Angeles, CA 90021, (213) 800-9750 -
Si! Mon
The Scene: A vibrant mood featuring a courtyard with a cozy fireplace and twinkling lights — steps from the beach.
Order: The tuna carpaccio yuca tostada, with cachucha aioli, smoked achiote oil and black lime ($16).It’s a taste of Panama at Si! Mon, courtesy of chef José Olmedo Carles Roja, who was born and raised in Panama City. He marries cuisine from his home country with a mix of influences, including African, Chinese, Spanish and Caribbean. It’s a seafood-focused menu (ceviches, fish cooked in banana leaf) with seasonal dishes meant to be shared. Signatures include yuca tostadas, which take three days to prepare, and the passionfruit mezcal margarita. Roja partnered with husband-wife duo Louie and Netty Ryan (of Hatchet Hall, Townhouse and Menotti’s Coffee) on the venture.
“I wanted to create a menu that showcases my personal interpretation of the rich culinary history of Panama and Central America as a whole,” Roja said. “There are so many influences and flavors to explore, so we are constantly looking for ways to incorporate the ingredients and flavors of those influences while working with the bounty of great Californian produce that L.A. has to offer.”
Hours: Monday to Thursday, 5 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5 p.m. to midnight; Sunday, 5 to 9 p.m.
Location: 60 North Venice Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90291
(310) 302-0016 -
Donna’s
The Scene: Where to see and be seen in Echo Park.
Order: The veal piccata, with lemon, capers and parsley ($35).Donna’s is Italian American comfort food, with a fresh take by former Felix and Union chef Sathia Sun, who grew up nearby in Long Beach, Calif. He offers elevated fusilli alla vodka and linguini alla vongole, alongside classics like chicken parmesan and veal piccata — covered in a signature red sauce. Desserts are familiar favorites like tiramisu and cannoli. Inside, amid an electric energy, it’s a cozy, homey ambience with bold, vintage-inspired wallpaper and hanging plants. Michael Francesconi and Mathew Glaser, of Lowboy, Bar Flores and Wolf & Crane, are behind the restaurant, which continues to draw attention. It’s on everyone’s radar.
Hours: Nightly, 5 to 10 p.m.
Location: 1538 Sunset Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90026
(213) 266-8132