In the lush landscapes of Vicenza, known as the City of Gold, one name has been synonymous with luxurious, innovative, and finely crafted jewelry: Roberto Coin.
From the picturesque charm of his Italian surroundings to the global stages of high-end jewelry, Roberto Coin has mesmerized the world with designs that interweave moments of emotion with artistic flair — all stamped with a hidden, magical signature: a tiny ruby.
Born in the city often hailed as the seat of Italian goldsmithing, Roberto Coin stepped on a career path that initially seemed worlds apart from jewelry design. After studying hotel management, Coin spent his early 20s as a hotel manager. His life then took a serendipitous turn when he began working in the jewelry industry. By 1977, his entrepreneurial spirit was ignited, leading him to launch his first company in Vicenza.
Related Articles
It wasn’t until 1996, though, that Roberto Coin officially launched his own namesake brand. This venture was marked by an immediate departure from convention and was fueled by a passion for art and fashion. His collections, richly inspired by nature, history and different cultures, began to attract attention for their creativity and technical excellence. The “Appassionata” collection, celebrated for its intricate, woven gold craftsmanship, and the “Fantasia” collection, noted for its sophisticated use of colored stones, were among his early successes, setting a luxurious groundwork for the brand’s identity.
Coin’s design ethos is based in the purity of the creative process itself. “In my life, creativity was the most important thing because creativity to me is freedom,” Coin said recently. “Creativity is a beautiful way of living life because you can create your own style of life in a different manner. It is not only about jewelry, it is about life, about people, about everything. Creativity is endless. Creativity allows me to meet different people, different cultures, different hearts. And it allows me to have a great knowledge for my own work. And that’s where my jewelry comes from.”
Roberto Coin’s designs stand out not only for their aesthetic beauty but also for their meaningfulness. Every piece holds a story along with a whisper of historical references. They are embedded with personal narratives that make them more than mere ornaments, but heirlooms rich with sentiment. Moreover, imbued in each creation is Coin’s belief in the joy of nature, making his jewelry resonate with life’s vibrant energies. Each piece is a masterpiece, meticulously crafted by skilled artisans using the finest materials. From dazzling diamonds to vibrant gemstones, Coin’s creations are a celebration of color, texture and light.
The distinctive mark of his sense of purpose is the hidden ruby found in each of his creations. Inspired by ancient Egyptian belief that wearing a ruby close to the skin promoted long life, love and happiness, Coin adopted this enchanting tradition. Therefore, tucked away in the interior part of each piece, a tiny ruby kisses the wearer’s body, bestowing upon them blessings of good fortune.
Roberto Coin’s dedication to quality and passion for diverse influences is evident in the way his collections constantly evolve. His innovative approach is perhaps most striking in his use of rare and unconventional materials, which often blend bold textures and lavish patterns. Each of his creations is a testament to his philosophy that jewelry should not only dazzle but also delight, comfort, and inspire. And for his part, his creations are born from the heart.
“When I create a new collection, it is like having a new baby who brings happiness but also needs special care,” Coin recently told WWD.
One of Coin’s most distinctive collections, the “Animalier,” promotes a message about protecting nature and wildlife. The lifelike eyes of the lion in the collection serve as a reminder of the need for conservation. The “Venetian Princess” collection, on the other hand, is a reinterpretation of the city’s iconic flower that showcases Coin’s unique perspective. “I never do whatever I see. I change it with my imagination,” he says.
The fame of Roberto Coin has expanded globally, with admirers and patrons ranging from Hollywood celebrities to those who appreciate the incorporation of Italian flair and craftsmanship in everyday life. His collections are sold in prestigious boutiques worldwide, and the brand has become a staple on red carpets and in high fashion publications — revered not just for its aesthetic quality but also for its emblematic personal touch. Famous people who have worn his jewelry include Nicole Kidman, Oprah Winfrey, Selena Gomez, Cynthia Erivo, Kate Hudson, Jennifer Lopez and Halle Berry, and among many others.
When asked to define modern luxury, Coin said luxury for different people means different things. “Fortunately, beauty and elegance are not based on price,” said. “Since the beginning I didn’t want to create jewelry for the kings and queens of the world. To me, to create for the young generation was more important than anybody else, always aiming to enhance the uniqueness and self-expression of every woman. We want to evoke wonder through innovation and mastery.”
Today, Roberto Coin continues to break mold after mold, with each collection bringing forward new narratives articulated through exquisite gemstones, intricate detailing, and a profound respect for artisanal tradition. But beyond the sparkle and the prestige, his work remains an intimate letter to the lavishing beauty of the Italian artisanship and his own relentless pursuit of beauty and innovation in the modern world.
This past year also marked a key milestone for the brand, which is the sixth-largest jewelry brand in the U.S. — the world’s largest branded jewelry market. Roberto Coin Inc. was acquired by the Watches of Switzerland Group. The company said Roberto Coin Inc. will continue to operate as an independent, stand-alone company within the Watches of Switzerland Group, and the Coin family will retain a seat on the Roberto Coin Inc. board of directors. Peter Webster remains as company president, supported by the team he has built over the past 30 years. Roberto Coin, founder and CEO, remains with the brand, which will continue to operate independently in regions outside North and Central America.
Regarding the future of the jewelry industry, Coin is optimistic. “Well, when you think of the jewelry industry, you are speaking to an industry which is 2000 to 3000 years old. It always existed,” he said. “Today the industry is challenging and the competition is much greater. The price of gold and diamonds dictates a lot of the future too because it could become too expensive and less accessible to a lot of clients.
But I feel positive, as I think that credible and grounded companies, which provide good service, ethical prices and strong design will have a future.”
Roberto Coin’s legacy is not just shaped by the jewels he creates, but by the joy and elegance he brings to those who wear them. As he continues to carve his path through the realms of luxury jewelry, each piece serves as both a celebration of history and a bold stride into the future of design. In the grand tapestry of high-end jewelry, Roberto Coin is indeed a designer who not only understands his craft but reimagines it, leaving behind a trail sparkling with timeless allure.